Свежие огурцы

It’s spring! -- although the obvious signs of this are currently limited to less ice in the early morning and more rain on my head. It seems that the natives aren't even fooled by the occasional presence of heat from the sun, as they're still shuffling around in coats, scarves, and boots. More than a few times, I’ve wondered if I’m walking along side them in a parallel reality as I blister inside my jacket and tee-shirt.

But here in Petersburg there is another sign of spring, and it smells like fresh cucumbers!

Yes, ‘tis the season for smelt (корюшки). Not a flashy or particularly large fish. But right now people are waiting in lines in markets and grocery stores for these little guys that are spending this month making their way up the Neva from the Gulf of Finland (Финский залив) to their spawning grounds in Lake Ladoga (Ладожское озеро). 

I  didn’t begin to appreciate fish in general until I was an adult so I’m a little behind in my knowledge of who’s who. That and I’m lazy. Instead of branching out in Portland for two years, I became somewhat of a salmon snob. Which means that before Petersburg, I’d never smelt a smelt.

But now I have, and -- WOW! They really, honestly and truly, seriously do smell like fresh cucumbers. This year’s season began about two weeks ago, and so a good friend dragged me to a bunch of markets so that I could stick my nose into a tub of fresh-caught smelt. He also thought to take pictures (thankfully, not of my nose).

These were actually what was left after the run on the bigger ones. Small is okay, but not for the connoisseur. And of course, the real delicacy is to find smelt that have not released their roe.

Saint Petersburg even has its own smelt festival. This year День корюшки will be held on May 12th and 13th (10-year anniversary).

http://kultura.spb.ru/street-events1.php

Next is a great video about catching smelt along the Gulf of Finland. You learn how the locals catch, cook, and serve. Obviously, smelt are best cooked right after catching and served in the brisk outdoors!

Back in the city, if you’re out late enough at night, you might be able to spot fishermen on the bridges over the Neva. But even if you don’t wind up doing your own fishing or your own cooking, you can check out smelt cuisine in a multitude of Petersburg restaurants. 

http://www.restoclub.ru/korushka

Enjoy!!!